Supanniga Eating Room, Bangkok
Nestled in the heart of bustling Bangkok, near Ei8ht Lifestyle Mall in Thong Lor, is Supanniga Eating Room, a restaurant that serves a wide range of traditional Thai dishes from both owner Eh’s hometown in Trat, situated by Thailand’s east coast, and Khon Kaen, northeast Thailand, where his family currently lives. The dishes were inspired by his grandmother’s original recipes from the Trat and Chantaburi provinces with a slight Isan touch.
Authenticity is the bedrock of this restaurant, from the ambience to the food. The shop-house that Supainiga inhabits has been transformed and refitted with decor reminiscent of the Supanniga Home in Khon Kaen, where Eh’s grandmother, Khunyai Somsri, once lived, and where her culinary journey began. There is a warm, homely feel to the restaurant, perfectly complemented by traditional north-eastern Thai furniture and utensils like kapom tables and mai fuem (an Isan weaving utensil), giving guests a taste of Isan culture.
Occupying three storeys, the restaurant is a combination of brushed concrete and wooden fittings, inspired by the hotel of the same namesake that Eh’s family owns back in Isan. We were also surprised by how spacious the interior was. There is even space at the back of the ground floor for a low bar with a decent selection of wine showcased on the shelves. Additionally, if you prefer dining al fresco, there is a cosy outdoor veranda with a sofa and some cushions — a popular spot in the restaurant amongst regular diners. However, style alone is not what they are here for.
The team at Supanniga takes home-cooking to the next level. Getting down to business, we tried some of the dishes recommended by Eh.
Ka lum plee tod nam pla is cabbage stir fried quickly and intensely in a sizzling hot wok, and seasoned with high-quality fish sauce from Trat. While the scent of this dish can sometimes be overpowering, the one we tried had the right balance. Next was the kaeng moo chamuang curry, a sweet and mild dish that is served with pork, and seasoned with the fragrant leaves of the Garcinia Cowa tree, a relative of the mangosteen. For dessert, we had the classic and delightfully sweet mango sticky rice, and the more inventive Thai tea panna cotta, a less creamy version of its Italian counterpart.
To complement the food, Supanniga offers a selection of strong martinis, including the British-inspired Earl Grey tea martini. If you prefer something non-alcoholic, check out their sweet and rejuvenating fresh juices and mocktails.
In fast-developing Bangkok, it is unsurprising to find time-honoured traditions eroding from its cultural landscape, so it is almost ironic that one should find a restaurant as steeped in history as Supanniga Eating House, tucked away beside the incredibly modern Ei8ht Mall. It is a reminder that pockets of Thai society are still intent on holding onto their roots, especially in the kitchen.
Getting There:
BTS: Thong Lor
Address: Next to ‘Ei8ht’ shopping complex, 160/11 Sukhumvit Rd, Thong Lor
Tel: +66 (0)2 714 7508